Ode Restaurant – Shaldon – Review


This evenings restaurant review is of the quite small and quant restaurant “Ode”.  Upon arriving and first inspection looking at the front entrance, which looks more like a small town house. With large open windows with small A4 pages listing menu’s etc, and also a lovely stain glass window door the centre of the bay windows.  Just to the left hand side is the entrance and upon entering you then turn a corner and walk directly into the small eating area.

Ode is slightly different from other restaurants as the whole Eos about the place, is organic locally sourced produce, but this does not only mean about the food. This also includes the building its self, I can only guess that upon purchasing the building the owners stripped it back to basics and then filled the place with local materials/goods. A list of such local products can be found on their website site which includes things such as:

  • Tumbled kale travertine floor in restaurant – natural stone from Europe.
  • Tables made from European ash wood from sustainable sources and made locally in Prince Town, Dartmoor.
  • Sourced reclaimed timber and driftwood from salvage yards.

They are also very dedicated to providing only organically sourced produced, although I’m not a fan of the organic type food etc (I’m just not that interested in it), i am pleased to see a restaurant/chef/owner show such caring in his produce and his working environment. This shows a good first impression and I haven’t even seen the food yet!!

Table was booked for 7:45, as this was the only time slot available to me, which shows the popularity of this restaurant as i booked a week in advance.

Upon entering the restaurant i was immediately greeted by a friendly waitress and showed a table which was by the window and had a lovely view out onto the street so great for people watching. The restaurant is very small and cosy and only doing 24 covers, you can imagine has an intimate feel of good homely cooking. Unfortunately I was 15 minutes earlier than my booking however this was not a problem and the waitress was very friendly. Upon seating Claire (Head of Front of House) greeted me and she was a fabulous guide to the paper sheet printed menu.  She was very kind with guiding me through the menu and some of the most popular dishes and personal favorites, I found this wonderful and something that is really lacking in restaurants today, without having to ask.

After having made my selections some flat bread with cumin with an olive paste was served, this was a nice change to the regular bread with oils/butter and the bread. Fabulous and crisp and a real good strong flavour of cumin.

A complimentary amuse bouche was then served of sand eel’s in Japanese breadcrumbs and lemon, with a home-made tartare sauce, this was extremely tasty combined with the sauce worked well on the palette. The tartare sauce was particularly quite acidic which I am a fan of and worked well.  Also with the use of the Japanese  breadcrumbs these were not greasy and had a good dry feel.

My starter of “Salad of Lyme bay lobster and brown crab, with BBQ sauce and marinated courgette” arrived around 10 minutes after the amuse bouche was served. The style of the plating was quite modern, however with the use of the salad leaves managed to keep that home look but very sophisticated style of plating lay underneath. Upon trying the Lobster i found this to be sweet and have a lovely texture which was well cooked. The accompanying BBQ sauce was not what you have come to expect from the local pub, no thick dark brown sauces here. Instead was a lovely and mild sauce which had many different layers of flavour, however I would have liked abit of kick to the sauce and some heat to join the dish. The crab element of the dish was crab lightly bound in a dressing, which seemed to have quite a strong coriander flavour and worked well to refresh your palette, again if the BBQ sauce had a bit of kick to accompany this it would have worked even better. I did find four pieces of crab shell unfortunately while eating the dish, now some times this cannot be helped, however these were quite large but again when having crab one has to expect this some times. The dish was a very good and generous portion but this should be expected for a £13 starter.

My main course of sea bass then arrived, on first inspection I was dissipated by the portion size as this seemed rather small. However once moving the fish I found this to be a very thick cut and I was immediately impressed with the crisp skin and perfectly white rims of the cooked wish. Underneath the main star, was some various mixed vegetables of runner beans etc. This was then following by the spider crab, now having never tasted this before I was a very pleased with my menu choice, the meat was lovely and almost creamy to eat. The oil dressing provided was quite sweet and provided a nice contrast to the Quinoa mixed in within the crab meat. This turned out to be a much more filling dish than I expected and although I think the £22 price tag is quite steep this again has been caught only 2 miles away by the local line caught fishermen. So you need to expect a certain price premium for this quality and local produce.

A dessert menu was then presented to me and immediately my eyes were drawn to the chocolate cake, again Claire was fantastic and upon asking her about the chocolate % etc this was all answered from memory and quickly. The chocolate cake was made from 74% and both there dark and white chocolate come from the Uk and used Beans. However again this dish was quite an expensive example I thought upon ordering, but thought I would hold judgement until this was served. Praying that also I did not stave myself for the whole day to miss out on a lovely calorie ladened dessert. A black Americano coffee was also ordered as well.

When the desert arrived all my worries started to fade away in a chocolate coma.  It seemed how the chocolate cake took a serious back seat on this dish, and the Moose seemed to take more of the 1st place, with a large scoop curled on top of the cake.  The cake its self was very nice and moist and because the exclusion of flour, it was quite dense and seems to fall apart and break into nice little sections to eat.  The accompanying chocolate brittles again very amazing with a rich chocolate and sugar flavour, and were beautiful.  Now on to the moose which was in 2 words “Mind Blowing” the caramel flavours really did shine through this thick and dense moose, i savored every bite of this truly gorgeous element of the dish and found it to be particularly the star of the night.

My Coffee then arrived and was lovely hot and flavoursome, the accompaniments were a delightful fruit brioche which was brittle to bite but then turned into a lovely and chewy bread within the mouth.  Also the chocolate Ganache was very good and very rich and dense, however the over use of Coco powder did overpower the actual chocolate slightly.

Final thoughts:
Service – 9/10
The service here is nothing short but impressive, with your glass quickly and constantly topped up without even having to glance at a server.  The staff here are all very kind and polite and are welcoming to have a chat.  Claire was a particular star of the show whose knowledge of the food, produce and also the building was impressive.

Food – 8/10
The food tonight was a gallery of fine cooking combined with real caring of produce, the local produce and effort gone into finding such special elements really did show.  However little things i believe could have slightly been improved such as the BBQ sauce on the starter and the crab shells found at the beginning as well.  These issues aside though, the whole meal was very good with good and also new flavours being shown.

Value – 7/10
The entire meal came to a quite reasonable £52, which i was pleased with however if i was a larger group or with partner this could soon add up.  I understand the need to the premium prices due to the local produce but i think the costs could be looked at slightly to get the dishes more at even prices.  However at the end of meal talking with the owner i understand they do a “taste of the Teign” menu which is a set cost menu, but this is only served on Tuesday- Friday nights.

Overall – 8/10
A very impressive and cozy restaurant which local produce really is the main star of the show.  Anyone who decides to eat here will find welcoming staff and lovely sea food.

 

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